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The classic double breasted coat

This double breasted coat exemplifies my ideas regarding good styling. Made in the London Lounge atelier, the mid gray hopsack cloth has been cut into a 6 x 2 double breasted coat with the notch placed fractionally in the upper quadrant of the chest, and a fit that is close to the body.

This understated styling in a DB contrasts with the exuberant, regional styling we see often amongst Italian and especially Neapolitan tailors. And ideally it is a bit more interesting than some antiquated Savile Row versions with their very curved, short lapels. In fact, these lapels do not flourish over the top of the shoulder, they are balanced in the sense that they are neither too long nor too short, neither too wide nor too thin, neither too straight nor too curved.

And most of all the lapels have good line from the button to the point. One often sees lapels that are very meager near the button, growing to very wide at the point. This creates a kind of inverse bend in the lapel that can be ungainly.

I think this is a good look for the back of a DB coat, close to the body, but neither too tight nor too loose. There is good breadth in the shoulders and a taper in the waist. Make sure and have a good look at the back of your coat when you are buying or bespeaking a new one.

Cats!